Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but express concern that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
